Tukka Tuk Canteen, Cardiff

I think it’s fair to say that when it comes to the hospitality sector; Whitchurch Road has taken more than a bit of a pasting since the turn of the year. The sudden closure of some well known names who made their street their home over the last decade contributed to quite possibly the least satisfying “I told you so” of all time as the shock to the system began to set in and everything that we had been consistently told was going to happen by those within the hospitality sector was actually starting to happen. 

It was here that I was about to tell you how there were some glimmers of hope shining through and that one of them was coming in the form of Tukka Tuk Canteen but just as I had finished writing my closing sentences of this post, the news came through that it too had been forced to shut its doors permanently in what is a genuinely heartbreaking development. The canteen was a passion project that was representative of another evolution in the culinary chops of Anand George (Purple Poppadom and Tukka Tuk) as he leant more confidently than ever into his Keralan roots and expanded them outwards towards Sri Lanka to make for a vibrant, genuinely interesting menu. Alongside him; long time business partner, Rupali Wagh, with her decades long experience and who during our two visits made for an utterly charming host, especially during our second visit as we were greeted as old friends as soon as we walked in through the door. 

The thing is, Tukka Tuk Canteen should’ve worked; its distinctive signage and bright decor brightened up the little stretch of Whitchurch Road it resided upon no end. The restaurant itself was brimming with personality and the food at times bordered on out of this world. We start with the "Short Eats" (a cracking take on the much maligned small plates moniker) which we use as starters over both visits. The comforting familiarity of George’s KFC is the type of dish you  remember eating for the first time and here it was as good as ever. Chicken Kola Urundai came in the form of three hefty croquettes; unassuming enough from the outside but densely packed with deeply spiced minced chicken and brought to exuberant life with a punchy chilli ketchup. The Ulli Vada Bhajee complimented a pint of Cobra (on draught by the way) making for the ultimate beer snack while the one dish that got a repeat order over both visits was the beef fry: cubes of the most tender beef covered in a dry sauce that packed a creeping, warming heat that lingered on the palate; acting as the most welcome guest that you never, ever, want to leave.

There were Kari (Curry) options in abundance with each item on the menu as appealing as the last. Whether it was the Jaffna lamb with its promises of robust spices and unique depths of flavour, the Kerala beef which on reading sounded like a levelled up version of that beef fry as if that was even possible or Mangaloren Prawn with flavours of coconut, chilli and tamarind. During our first visit we’re recommended the Crabbie Crab and what arrived was a striking dish.The curry, described as a riff on a bisque, arrived deep brown and flush with crab meat. Its crowning glory a full soft shell crab, deep fried until golden. A seafood lovers dream that had all the makings of becoming one of the city's signature dishes.

Our second visit included the Ceylon Lamb, a traditional Sri Lankan sweet and sour curry that hit all the right notes with the cubes of Lamb being the best I’ve ever had in any curry house anywhere while a Paneer Masala was rich, deep and complex; heavy with tomato and generous with Paneer. Even the bread and sundries were worth going out of your way for. The Parotta in all of its flaky, buttery glory acting as the perfect vessel for mopping up any leftover curry and the Dosa too; a savoury crepe made with fermented lentils; outrageously crispy with a slight tang, It’s no easy feat to get these right and the Canteen did so with Panache.

I could continue to wax lyrical about Tukka Tuk Canteen but my mind inevitably keeps wandering towards trying to understand how it didn’t work. Is it the open hostility from the government towards every aspect of hospitality resulting in it becoming a completely unsustainable model for most? Is it the very real and ongoing cost of living crisis that continues to both drive prices up and put the squeeze on people who would love nothing more than to be able to afford to eat out more than they can if at all? Is it the general indifference that is particularly prevalent in Cardiff when it comes to trying something new that isn't a mid-size chain or activity bar? Or is it the abundance of wannabe influencers who won’t get out of bed for anything less than a free Lunch despite their indignant protestations that they’re passionate about the very local businesses that they continually take for a ride? All of the above and more I guess.

I don't have the answers and I'm verging on rant territory a bit so I'm going to wrap it up with this; through no fault of its own, Tukka Tuk Canteen had to shut its doors for good day and that means two legends of the Cardiff independent food scene have had years of work, dedication and passion go up in smoke within a matter of months. This isn't a reflection on them and once the dust settles I hope they can see that because Tukka Tuk Canteen genuinely was that good and when something that good has a lifespan of months only it means that something else is very, very wrong and we should all be worried about where this goes next.

So, this week, if you can, book yourself in to that restaurant you've been meaning to go to for ages or go and book yourself back in to one you particularly love because at this stage, every cover will genuinely count and it could your bill could be a difference maker.