Dirty Gnocchi @ Gathering Ground, Victoria Park

The team behind Dirty Gnocchi have been working hard over the last 18 months building their brand. Formerly of La Pentola on Whitchurch Road, they have the sort of local pedigree you love to see alongside any new independent opening. Their USP is their namesake: Dirty Gnocchi. Little fried starch pillows loaded with various Cheeses, Aiolis and Meats, all that good shit y’know? and it’s the quality of that food that has seen them become familiar faces at your favourite local street food haunts all the while gently expanding their menu to feature some more show stopping dishes like Pasta turned in a wheel of cheese. They can currently be found operating out of the increasingly essential Cardiff Market.

It was only a matter of time though before an itch would surface that required scratching and they recently announced a return to a temporary bricks and mortar setting at Gathering Ground next door to Victoria Park. The sample menu released prior to opening weekend sounding seriously tempting with every dish practically shouting “order me, you fucking idiot, look how good I sound!” more than enough for me to get on to their socials and bag myself a seat on Saturday night.

Pea & Ricotta Arancini are little balls of Spring fresh goodness, so much so that I was barely afforded a bite only succeeding after pulling the “Don’t you know who I am?” card although that was more out of pity to be fair. Heavy with Pea and Mint with the accompanying Garlic and Lemon Aioli adding a much needed fatty edge to stop us feeling too healthy.

Seafood Sorrento “DG Style” is especially appealing on the eye, like two little parcels under the tree waiting to be unwrapped. The King Prawn and Crab Arancini was perhaps more akin to a fish cake although none-the-worse for it especially as the accompanying Cockle Popcorn does more than its fair share of heavy textural lifting. The deep fried Lobster Tortellini could’ve perhaps benefitted from a more shattering crisp but the filling itself, with its light piscine hum working in tandem with the zingy Laverbread Aioli is a real joy.

I’ve been itching most to tell you about the Lasagne though: bursting with in-season Lamb that has been slow cooked and pulled apart. It has only the slightest gamey hint telling you that this is a really well sourced and fresh piece of meat. It’s backed up with perfectly al dente sheets of Lasagne, a rich but not overwhelming Bechamel and Mozzarella which is crisped up in all the right places. All of it is sitting in an acidic and fragrant Pomodoro sauce acting as the ideal buffer against all that fat. I guess it’s worth mentioning that it’s deep fucking fried as well. It’s a mental dish that on paper should be way too much to handle but in practice it’s nothing but a real triumph to eat. Compelling, Moreish and all in all just representative of a chef who clearly has a real understanding of their craft.

Finally, a Tiramisu arrives about the size of a baby’s forearm and a lovely little thing it is too. Light, creamy and silky smooth. You could put your head on it to sleep off the deep fried Lasagne if you’re careful enough. It’s balanced with no element outgunning the other. Certainly one of the finer versions of the Italian classic I’ve eaten and a great way to end the meal.

Just in case it isn’t obvious, our meal at Dirty Gnocchi was a raging success. There’s a lot more to go back for too. I’ve got my eye on that Ravioli which I was a little disheartened to see hadn’t made it into the Saturday service after presumably selling out the night before and the Cheese Wheel Carbonara which seems to be a popular choice elsewhere on the night receiving several envious glances as I watch it served tableside adding a real bit of theatre to the night but that’s just an excuse to go back if anything. We ate and drank really well (three courses, two buckets of wine and a couple of G&Ts) for around £90 between the two of us which for my money is utterly superb value for some really memorable food. 

Dirty Gnocchi’s pop up at Gathering Ground is open Friday’s and Saturdays through April and May - Get steppin’ to booking, by giving them a call or messaging on the socials @dirtygnocchi - you won’t regret it.