La Cuina - Cardiff (Now Closed)
La Cuina has shut its doors for good. A month ago, the team announced their closure via social media and were met with an outpouring of well wishes and congratulations on a job well done but in amongst all of that was a real sense of sorrow, lamenting the loss of one of Cardiff’s best and its important place within the community, on both accounts it’s easy to see why. There are references to Catalan culinary legends El Bulli and the Roca Brothers peppered throughout the menu and restaurant all of which serve as a gentle nudge just to let you know that you’re in safe hands and from the moment you step into the restaurant, even on its last night of service, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming as if you’ve been invited round for your tea. Diners are sharing tables, separated only by plant pots and decorational crockery but nobody seems to mind, we’re all here to share a family meal after all.
There is only ever going to be one choice for the main event. The La Cuina signature dish of milk fed Mountain Lamb - A sizable leg comes with its meat practically falling off the bone. It’s sweet and tender with zero hint of that gamey-ness that puts a lot of potential eaters off. There’s a constant hum of Rosemary, bringing an almost festive feel of which you’d be forgiven for considering the accompanying roast potatoes, tenderstem, green beans and carrots add to the illusion. This is pure value for money in both quality and quantity and it’s one of those dishes that will go down in Cardiff culinary folklore.
There are marinated Gordal Olives the size of a babies fist alongside mounds of blistered, bittersweet Padron Peppers with the occasional spicy boi hiding in the crowd to keep you on your toes.
A mound of Sobrasada in all of its meaty, spice packed glory is drenched in honey and resting on a cushion of soft cheese. It eats beautifully spread across some Pan Con Tomate, arguably, even more so on its own. It’s proof that there is no comparison for expertly sourced produce and this is surely among the very finest.
Cecina Croquetas epitomise comfort eating. Traditionally shaped and whipped until smooth. They’re served rustically on top of a cheese sauce that has the most delicate, blue tang. A little stash of Carrot crudits sit beside them adding a fresh, sweet crunch to help refresh your palate. You could eat a thousand of these and still be upset when you’re left with no more.
Finally, Orange and Almond Cake - drenched in a sweet, perfumey syrup. Expertly judged, taking the sponge to its limits of moistness and not a step further. A salted caramel ice-cream and chocolate sauce adds a dash of luxury to send you on your way.
This was my first and last time eating at La Cuina and I’m sitting here feeling a mixture of selfish aggrievement that I won’t be able to do so again, regret thinking about all of the dishes I’d neglected to eat over the years, a sense of relief that I at least hadn’t missed out and pride that we even had something this good in the first place. A food enthusiast’s pretentious take on the five stages of grief I guess. It only takes a brief email from the brains behind it all, chef and owner, Montserrat to put things into perspective - “It’s been ten years and we are now ready for a quieter time.” and who can really begrudge that? La Cuina have given so much ultimately have gone out on their own terms at the height of their powers. It’s a story not too dissimilar to the story of those that helped to shape their own, and what a tale they’ll be able to tell.
Ah, acceptance. There it is.
